Top Tips From the Wine Cellar: 4 South African bottles to try

Pittsburgh might seem an unlikely epicenter for America’s education on South African wines, but that doesn’t faze Certified Sommelier and wine “translator” Adam Knoerzer. A Pittsburgh resident for the last nine years, Knoerzer in 2019 won the Wines of South Africa Sommelier Cup national competition in New York and then represented the United States in the finals held in South Africa. Today Knoerzer remains a passionate proponent of South African wines and wine education generally.

“The light-bulb moment came when I heard consumers saying they didn’t realize that South Africa made wine and generally they just passed by South African wines on the shelf,” Knoerzer says while sharing a glass of delicious 2017 Storm, Pinot Noir “Vrede,” from talented grower Hannes Storm from the coastal Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. “Meanwhile I knew from personal experience that within just a two-hour drive in any direction around Capetown in South Africa’s western coast there’s a concentration of diverse, high-quality wines that is really unique in the world.”

So in 2019, Knoerzer created ’Burghundy (burghhundy.com) and now offers educational courses on South African wines and other regions, wine events and wine consulting in Pittsburgh and beyond. ’Burghundy pays homage to Knoerzer’s other passions: Pittsburgh, with an “h,” and the wines of Burgundy, France.

The wine bug initially bit Knoerzer when he lived in Paris for a year pursuing graduate studies in political science and French languages. He returned to New York, married and then moved to Pittsburgh with his husband. He took a job as a Portuguese and French translator, and then landed a corporate gig performing clinal software trials and staff training.

For over five years, the latter required two weeks of international travel each month, and Knoerzer eventually visited more than 50 countries including wine spots such as Australia, France, Chile, Argentina and, yes, South Africa. During his diverse travels, Knoerzer always tried to tack on a few days to explore the wines on each stop. He fell hard for South Africa.

“The landscape of the western Cape of South Africa has unrivalled, arresting beauty. There’s nothing else like it,” Knoerzer says. “And there’s nothing elsewhere to match the diversity and high quality of wines in such a compact area.”

He notes that distinct terroirs within South Africa’s region allows growers to produce wines with Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon for reds and Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc for whites.

In 2017, Knoerzer chucked his corporate role in favor of a teaching position as “Dean of Drinking” at Palate Partners, a Pittsburgh-based wine and spirits school. While there he achieved the Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level Three Award in wines.

“Adam is an amazing person and not just for his palate and memories of wines,” says Mike Gonze, a co-founder of Palate Partners. “He reinvented himself professionally, and he is a great teacher who makes wine appreciation fun.”

True to form, when it comes to South Africa, Knoerzer has sensible advice.

“Approach South African wines with curiosity, rather than apprehension,” he says. “If you’re just discovering them with $15 or less to spend, then start with a Chenin Blanc white and then go onto the reds. If you set your price, then South African wines have something for you.”

Try the following tasty bottles:

• The 2018 Raats Family Wines, Original Chenin Blanc “Unwooded,” Stellenbosch, South Africa (Luxury 79139; Chairman’s Selection on sale: $9.99) comes from Bruno Raats, a pioneer in producing quality South African wines at terrific prices. This unpretentious, delicious wine offers enticing white floral notes opening to ripe pear and tropical fruit flavors. Fresh acidity balances a dry, fruity finish. Knoerzer calls it “an incredible steal.” Agreed! Enjoy it well-chilled after work before dinner. Highly Recommended.

• The 2018 Tania & Vincent Carême, Terre Brûlée “Le Blanc,” Swartland, South Africa (Luxury 79178; Chairman’s Selection On Sale: $9.99) comes from Vincent Carême, a native of France’s Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc’s spiritual home. His wife Tania hails from South Africa. The Chenin Blanc grapes for this wine come from north of Capetown from aged “bush” vines with meager yields. This quality fruit enables the Carêmes to produce an elegant wine with rich, juicy fruit and a subtle touch of oak-barrel aging. It still delivers plenty of freshness to balance the fruity, lingering finish. Pair it with chicken breasts in a cream sauce. Highly Recommended.

• The 2017 Ashbourne, Sauvignon Blanc (80%)/Chardonnay (20%), Walker Bay, South Africa (Luxury 77672; $11.99) comes from the Hamilton Russell family winery whose coastal vineyards lie in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. As a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, it has eye-opening aromas and zesty, ripe flavors of kiwi, quince and guava. A jolt of refreshing acidity balances a dry and fruity finish. Pair it with halibut topped with a mango and red pepper sauce. Highly Recommended.

• The 2016 Chris Andrea Mullineaux, Kloof Street, Swartland Rouge, South Africa (Luxury 76846; $18.99) offers a delightfully fresh and juicy red made from Southern Rhône varieties — mainly Syrah, plus Cinsault and Carignan. Aromas of violets, black pepper and dark red fruit open to pure, ripe fruit balanced by zesty acidity and soft, silky tannins. Enjoy this easy drinking delight with Eastern Carolina style pork barbeque sandwiches. Highly Recommended.